![]() ![]() ![]() Test the paint coat immediately surrounding the area to see if it will peel off easily. Go around the edges of the damaged area, digging with the knife until you reach hard, undamaged plaster. Apply firm pressure with the blade to dig out all the soft, loose material. Often (when it is viable to do so), plasterers will recommend overboarding such surfaces (particularly ceilings), as this can both reduce costs and risks to both the craftsperson and customer. Use a putty knife to lift off flaking paint and bubbling plaster. ![]() Then the surface needs to be prime coated to control suction, which is achieved using either PVA or SBR and water solution, or a suitable PVA grit. Ideally, the walls would be keyed by scratching with a scraper, a nail, or a float with embedded nails. If any part of the surface has become 'live' (or has debonded from the lath) these sections would need to be carefully repaired, by removing affected areas then patching - using bonding coat, or plasterboard, or sometimes both. The investigator should keep in mind that wood laths on which plaster is placed. The odd superficial crack is fine provided these are raked out slightly and bridged over with fibre tape (aka scrim). Wallboard will rarely crack from overpressure created by a sonic boom. The walls/ceilings would need to be in reasonably sound condition and adequately prepared. Some minor hairline cracking to the lath and plaster and possibly areas where the plaster has lost its key or bond to the wall may occur. However, there are a few things to consider: Yes, existing lath and plaster can be skimmed over. ![]()
0 Comments
Leave a Reply. |
AuthorWrite something about yourself. No need to be fancy, just an overview. ArchivesCategories |